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Woodworking Math

Mahogany vs walnut

True mahogany and black walnut are the classic fine-furniture woods of two continents. Walnut is the harder; mahogany moves much less.

Each column is the species its page leads with: true mahogany for mahogany, black walnut for walnut.

Side by side

PropertyMahoganyWalnut
Janka hardness, 12% MC800 lbf1,010 lbf
Weight, 12% MC33 lb/ft³ (529 kg/m³)38.5 lb/ft³ (616 kg/m³)
Specific gravity, 12% MC—0.55
Tangential shrinkage4.1%7.8%
Radial shrinkage3.0%5.5%
12 in flatsawn board, 6% → 12% MC0.102 in0.197 in
12 in quartersawn board, 6% → 12% MC0.074 in0.137 in
Bending strength (MOR), 12% MC11,500 psi14,600 psi
Stiffness (MOE), 12% MC1.5 million psi1.68 million psi
Crushing strength, 12% MC6,780 psi7,580 psi

One source: USDA Forest Products Laboratory, the authority for species properties it measured

Wood Handbook Tables 5-3b, 5-5b, 4-3, 4-4 and 13-5; weight and movement worked with its Eqs. 4-14, 13-3 and 13-4. A dash means the Handbook prints no value.

What sets them apart

Which mahogany
The name mahogany covers three woods: true (American) mahogany, African mahogany (Khaya), and “Philippine mahogany”, which the Handbook treats under the meranti groups. This page is true mahogany. (Wood Handbook, p. 2-28 to 2-29)
Stability
True mahogany dries without appreciable warp or checks and has excellent dimensional stability. Black walnut is stable in use. (Wood Handbook, p. 2-10 and 2-29)
Working and finishing
Mahogany is very easy to work with hand and machine tools and takes an excellent polish. Walnut is easily worked and well suited for natural finishes. (Wood Handbook, p. 2-10 and 2-29)
Strength
The Handbook compares air-dried true mahogany’s strength with American elm’s. Walnut is heavy, hard, strong and stiff. (Wood Handbook, p. 2-10 and 2-29)

For any other pair, open each species page from the wood hub; every page uses the same layout and the same sources.